BIRTH AW 13
Sandro Marzo’s debut collection, which at the same time represents the launch of his own label, consists of a total of 16 outfits which are characterised by a mixture or combination of aggressive military style with elements of the sacerdotal. With their severe lines, the outfits are very reminiscent of uniform. The floral embroidered elements, on the other hand, together with the mottled scattering of woollen fabric, give them a different kind of look and convey a suggestion of the sacral. The fabrics used were crucial to the development of the collection. Many of the textiles were created from Marzo’s own designs and are the product of his collaboration with prestigious Swiss manufacturers.
Comments of the nominators
Marzo’s first public appearance at Modes Suisse in Zurich and Geneva with his remarkably beautiful debut collection was a real success with the public. Using fine wools and other top-quality textiles in grey, black and white, he has succeeded in producing a surprising, sensuous and altogether masculine collection with unusual combinations and layers, which hits the nail on the head in a harmonious and convincing way.
Comments of the jury
The conceptual basis of this collection is as simple as it is attractive. The designer has drawn inspiration both from the church and from the army – giving convincing expression to both in developing these remarkable fabrics, which play on the ecclesiastical and military references in a subtle way. The astonishing maturity of this debut deserves to attract the attention of an international clientele interested in progressive men’s fashions. The collection demonstrates the designer’s talent, originality and independence. We are encouraged to hope that this young fashion designer, who can show a clear and unique stylistic signature, will become a firmly established feature of the men’s fashion scene.
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